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Post by garryg on Aug 14, 2021 17:24:34 GMT -5
So I'd just put the latest version of Circus Vectrex on to my VecFlash for testing on the Vectrex before burning it to eproms for the cartridges, turned it on and...
Nothing, no picture, no sound, no buzz, no dot in the centre of the screen, no glow from the back of the tube. Nothing.
Is it likely that this is just the on/off switch that's gone? Before it died it was taking a bit of time to show the screen after it was switched on, and the vectors had a lot of drift until it was left for a few minutes to 'heat up.'
it wasn't switching on a couple of years ago, then started working again for no apparent reason, I suspected the switch at the time, but never opened it so wasn't sure.
I'm wondering whether this is worth me taking a look at myself or if there is anyone who does Vectrex repairs in the UK?
If it is the switch can I just short this out with a bit of wire?
Unfortunately development of the 'Circus Vectrex' cartridge, and anything else, is pretty-much dead in the water without a working Vectrex!
Any thoughts?
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Post by TrekMD on Aug 14, 2021 19:33:38 GMT -5
I don't know anything about fixing a Vectrex but I do have someone who fixed mine. It's been while but the person should still be available.
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Post by garryg on Aug 14, 2021 21:01:42 GMT -5
Are they in the UK?
If it's even patchable (bypassing the switch) that would do for now.
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Post by TrekMD on Aug 15, 2021 10:34:21 GMT -5
No, sorry. The person is in the US.
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Post by minsoft on Aug 18, 2021 3:58:43 GMT -5
I suspect it is the switch. Not easy to remove / clean, but it is easy to bypass it. The switch has two poles, both have to be switched. You can remove the (red on mine) wires from the switch and connect each pair together. Be sure to connect the correct ones...you can use a continuity tester (with power off!) to check which should be connected together.
EDIT: the continuity test will not work for one of both of the poles (assuming the switch is faulty)...on mine only one of them had failed in the switch so it was good enough to test the other and deduce which wires had to be connected together.
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Post by garryg on Aug 18, 2021 17:02:21 GMT -5
On the pictures I've looked at it looks like the switch has three legs and two connectors on the back. I assumed two of these were the power and the other set was the potentiometer for the sound. Isn't that the case?
I don't suppose anyone would have a schematic of the switch showing the pin layout.
I suppose I'll just have to open it at the weekend and have a look.
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Post by drsnuggles on Aug 19, 2021 12:40:54 GMT -5
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Post by minsoft on Aug 19, 2021 15:34:23 GMT -5
The 3 legs that go into the PCB are for volume, but I'm sure there are 4 other connections on the switch for the power. 2 in & 2 out basically.
Get a multimeter on it - there should be power at all 4 points when switched on...you will probably find that 1 or 2 (depending if one or both of the poles have failed) of the points do not have power.
It's very simple but harder to explain, I can't find a picture of it. I'm sure when you have a look it will become clear.
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