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Post by jasonbar on Oct 8, 2013 3:08:07 GMT -5
2a stock MS wheel red 2b stock MS wheel green 2c stock MS wheel blue |
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 8, 2013 3:11:43 GMT -5
3a Madtronix NE/CC wheel red 3b Madtronix NE/CC wheel green 3a Madtronix NE/CC wheel blue |
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 8, 2013 3:12:39 GMT -5
4a Madtronix MS wheel red 4a Madtronix MS wheel red 3a Madtronix MS wheel red |
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 8, 2013 3:14:25 GMT -5
5a Infernolab vinyl red 5b Infernolab vinyl green 5c Infernolab vinyl blue |
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Post by 50tbrd on Oct 8, 2013 3:38:10 GMT -5
Looks like some real progress.
Maybe you can also try bonding them with heat like plastic welding.
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 8, 2013 10:44:27 GMT -5
Hey, my last post didn't stick. Let me hit that "Create Post" button a little harder... 6a all together 6b all together Attachments:
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Post by VectorX on Oct 8, 2013 12:05:56 GMT -5
4 - The color! My grief thus far in this project has been attaining transparent colored material. This vinyl looks fabulous! That was my first thought. They're really vibrant! |
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 9, 2013 11:06:53 GMT -5
Yesterday: - Called the plastic vendor, reminded them that they owed me opaque black samples, they said they'd ship right away - Printed wedge shapes for NE/CC 1:1 onto paper, cut out carefully w/ scissors, taped to vinyl, cut out matching vinyl shapes. This vinyl is rather stiff & tough to cut, much like a credit card. I couldn't cut it with an X-Acto knife or normal scissors--I had to use heavy-duty scissors. As such, my cuts weren't the most accurate, but they're good enough to mock one up for a test spin. - Tested bonding a cutoff scrap to one of the 3D printed hubs. My Loctite CA glue held it great. Good deal. Attached pic: Left: rev 1 hub w/ 3 cutout transparent vinyl pieces laid out & with paper stand-in for black piece ready to use to cut a test black piece by hand. Right: sample of spray-painted effort: opaque black was good, first coat of transparent blue was indeed transparent but not nearly a deep enough blue, second coat of transparent blue was a richer color but had a hazy & rough surface that was no longer transparent--you can see the texture in this pic. Top: test bond of transparent blue vinyl to rev 1 hub. Sticks great! Thanks, -Jason Attachments:
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 11, 2013 20:47:39 GMT -5
Got black vinyl samples in the mail yesterday. Unlike the handful of 8x10 transparent colored sheets, it was 2 huge rolls!
2 huge rolls of .010"- & .025" thick flexible vinyl...not a match for the .020"-thick stiff vinyl for the colored wedges.
Fudge.
Need to get more black...
-Jason
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 23, 2013 11:01:57 GMT -5
Got 2 more opaque materials yesterday:
1 - Samples of .020" thick vinyl. White is carried in inventory w/ that company. Black is a special order. Minimum order for a special order of black is about $500 for a loooooot of material.
2 - Right under my nose. McMaster! Never tried them. They have Delrin in .020" thick rigid black sheet. Density is a perfect match for my vinyl--wheel should be balanced just right. Ordered a sheet & received it in the mail yesterday. Seems rigid. Did a quick scissors hand-cut of the black wedge of both wheel designs. Cut pretty well. Fit up OK w/ the mockup in process. Feels at least as rigid as the original wheel.
Next: test glue hand-cut mockup, try it out in the 3D Imager. If good, then rev hub, print more hubs, send sheet material & art files to laser cutter, assemble some (hopefully) good wheels.
-Jason
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Post by VectorX on Oct 23, 2013 11:37:29 GMT -5
Sounds like you're getting there! Props to you for pushing on.
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 28, 2013 18:16:31 GMT -5
Glued up the latest hand-cut mockup: black Delrin, transparent red & green & blue wedges. They fit up pretty well. Well enough. The Delrin bonded nicely to the printed plastic hub. The assembly seemed adequately stiff & robust to survive handling, insertion, removal. The wheel spun smoothly--the density of the different plastics were close enough. Yay. The colors seemed a hair off when playing Narrow Escape & Crazy Coaster. I attribute this to my hand-cut pieces being a bit off relative to the timing hole. So, I put the originals on a scanner, adjusted the CAD geometry slightly, & now have updated models with the geometry massaged a bit. Scans attached. Next step: finalize details of what laser cutter shop needs to zap out the pieces, adjust the hub model, find a good local vendor on www.makexyz.com/ to print a few more hubs. -Jason Attachments:
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 29, 2013 12:14:16 GMT -5
Fun & research with my Casio EX-FC150 digital camera & its super high-speed slow-motion videos. www.steves-digicams.com/camera-reviews/casio/ex-fc150/casio-ex-fc150-review.htmlI wanted to try to capture & quantify any differences between my repro color wheel & the stock color wheel when playing Narrow Escape. I chose Narrow Escape because this game seems to provide more static & calm graphics than Crazy Coaster, allowing for easier comparisons. Note that, in the 2 Repro videos at normal speed, which have sound, there is a rattling noise--that is due to a slightly oversize gap between the imager's square drive boss & the wheel hub's square drive hole--there's a bit of rattle in that interface that I will tighten up in the next hub rev. Gauge pins revealed that this printed hub's square hole was about .011" wider than the stock hub's square hole. Also note that I took a few videos through the left eye of the 3D Imager, using the stock wheel, pointing at my ceiling light. You can use these videos as a reference of the RPM of the wheel if you wish to compare these against the videos of the Narrow Escape action. Stock Wheel, Left Eye, Normal Speed: www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2kudMQm7J0Repro Wheel, Left Eye, Normal Speed: www.youtube.com/watch?v=B88aKvL0r4MStock Wheel, Right Eye, Normal Speed: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fN016tAaKTMRepro Wheel, Right Eye, Normal Speed: www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vulacNfjDQNow, for the 420 fps high-speed slow-motion fun! Stock Wheel, Left Eye, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-KcpPxeK4wRepro Wheel, Left Eye, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfXRhAm0_B8Stock Wheel, Right Eye, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeLqkfHJotgRepro Wheel, Right Eye, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3mnjbvc6c8No wheel or imager, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASlw52zerIEStock Wheel, Left Eye, Pointed at my room's ceiling light, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtrjYG1_B5ANow, for the 1000 fps high-speed slow-motion fun! Stock Wheel, Left Eye, 1000 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=mExhtTaCZegNo wheel or imager, 420 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=uq4vSz-f_D8Stock Wheel, Left Eye, Pointed at my room's ceiling light, 1000 fps: www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2S-CaaBwOEConclusions: 1 - At normal speed, repro wheel shows a tad more ghosting than stock wheel. Ghosting with both wheels appears gray. Weird. 2 - At 420 fps, I can't see a difference between the repro & stock wheels. I also see no ghosting. Thanks, -Jason |
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Post by VectorX on Oct 29, 2013 12:24:57 GMT -5
So I take it this latest batch appears to be a success then?  |
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Post by jasonbar on Oct 29, 2013 13:29:14 GMT -5
I see the vector light at the end of the tunnel.
Next:
- Print more hubs w/ the slightly updated square boss hole & slightly shifted timing hole.
- Laser cut lots of wedges.
- Glue lots of wedges to hubs.
Test.
-Jason
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